This document contains much sought after information regarding Tribal models.

PLANS

Plans for HAIDA's 1943 and 1963 confiruation are available from The Hobby Centre, Ottawa Ontario:
http://hobcen.wordpress.com/vanguard-plans   

MODEL SOURCES

1)  RESIN SHIPYARDS

A 1/350 scale model of HAIDA is now available from Resin Shipyards.
For an independent review of the model click here.

2)   Deans Marine is a popular company in the UK for 1/96th scale models.

3)  Australian Tribal class destroyers in 1/72nd scale are HMAS Arunta [1943] and HMAS Warramunga [1955]. They are available from APS Models in Australia.The contact address is APS Models, PO Box 5025, Gwandalan, NSW, 2259 Australia. Phone/Fax 0249-725-825.  Via George Peat e-mail: gpeat(at)globalnet.co.uk

4) Links to other model resources and information can be found at  Task Force 72 Scale Model Ship Association Inc. in Australia.

5) Check here for the availibility of a plastic HMCS HURON model (1944)  Size: 1/700.  Age Range: 12-89.
Skill Level: 2 (out of 10)

PAINT SCHEMES IN GENERAL

In general, Canadian Ships of WWII used RN colours. Paint chips are available from Snyder and Short.
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/

Books that show various RN camo measures are avaliable here:
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/wr_press.htm

Model paint based on these colours are available from White Ensign:
http://www.whiteensignmodels.com/
 

PAINT SCHEME - HAIDA

From August 1943 to February 1944 HAIDA wore the Home Fleet scheme which was blue and grey. In February 1944, she switched to Western Approaches Special Force Camouflage. Listed below are the paint formulas for the latter scheme:

Off White:  Humbrol #34
M id Grey Green: 110 drops of Humbrol #30 to one matte white.
Pale Blue: 15 drops of Humbrol #25 to one drop matte white
Dark Terracota: Humbrol #70.

The reason for the off white and pale blue at the forward end was to make them almost invisible when approaching head  on. The stern was dark so the ships could keep station on one another. This camouflage was pastel in nature to absorb light, rather than reflecting it. It worked. When Haida sank T-27 the Germans never saw them and thought they were  being shelled by a cruiser.
 

PAINT SCHEME - IROQUOIS

From time to time, people would like to build a model of the Iroquois and enquire about the paint scheme.

Iroquois was originally in a WA Scheme the colours being WA Blue and white, decks B30, masts white. She then went to a Light Admiralty Disruptive scheme the colours being 507A, B5 and 507C, decks G20, tops of masts and crowsnest white. In 1943 all ships wore a variation of the Special Home Fleet Destroyer Scheme. This is the scheme most of us are familiar with. Originally the scheme had two colours, B55 and white, then later went to three colours, G10, G45 and white. Next came a four colour version being G20, B30, G45 and white.

The scheme evolved a bit over this time frame as well and not all ships were exactly alike. In the second half of 1944, the Tribals went to a an Admiralty Standard (Light Tone) Scheme. Scheme A which was worn from May to October  had the hull panel B20, everything else G45, decks B15, steel decks G10. Scheme B from November to April, hull panel B30, the rest B55, decks same as A. This would be the best choice to be represented in a model. In October 1945, they and all other RCN ships were ordered "to be painted on next occasion as follows: warships - hull G10, superstructure B30".  In other words dark hull, light upperworks.

In conclusion, look very carefully at your reference pictures and make sure you know just exactly what ship you are looking at.

Submitted by: Keith Butterley <keithbutterley(at)shaw.ca>

PROP SHAFT OILING DETAIL
 
 

When building warships, normal prop shafts are partially exposed from the hull to the 'A' frame supporting the shaft. To obtain this cut tube to required length, tap out bearing on redundant end and replace it in the new end this still gives bearings at each end. The method I use to prevent water from going up the tube between the actual shaft and tube: a) Drill hole in tube about one-third way along tube, solder oiler to tube. b) Using a  syringe filled with a mixture of grease and 3 in 1 oil, pump grease into tube closing off on end preferable with finger. When the grease reaches the finger stop, place actual shaft into tube again keeping finger over one end to prevent grease being forced out into hull. When you feel the shaft touch your finger the job is done. The oiler allows you to top up the oil in the tube without removing shaft. I top it up with the shaft turning slowly this allows the action of the shaft to draw oil into the tube.  (Via George Peat e-mail: gpeat(at)globalnet.co.uk)

Last updated: Feb 28/10